Jueves 5 de mayo de 2011 – Foz do Iguaçú, Brasil

A la mañana siguiente me levanté con toda la calma, desayuné muy bien y después de despedirme del dueño del hostal, me dirigí caminando a la terminal de buses, donde compré mi pasaje para Foz do Iguacú y me subí al bus.

Al llegar a la frontera tuvimos que descender todos para sellar nuestros pasaportes en Migraciones argentinas, retomamos el camino, cruzamos el puente que une ambos países, Argentina y Brasil, y ya en territorio brasileño, el bus nos dejó ante Migraciones de Brasil, para sellar nuevamente la entrada en nuestros pasaportes y luego esperar (por casi media hora) por un nuevo bus, que nos dejaría en la terminal de buses de Foz do Iguaçu. Por fin ya en Brasil…!

A medida que el vehículo se iba adentrando en territorio brasileño y especialmente en los alrededores de Foz, me comenzó a impresionar el tamaño de la ciudad, mucho mayor que su contraparte argentina. Anduvimos por avenidas y calles por un buen rato hasta que el bus llegó, me dí cuenta, frente al puente que une Brasil con Paraguay, es decir frente a la famosa Ciudad del Este de Paraguay.

Esto me llamó la atención porque en este punto se bajaron todos y entonces le pregunté al chofer si esta era la rodoviaria… el me dijo que ese bus no iba a la rodoviaria y entonces recordé que en Foz habían dos lugares terminales de buses: la rodoviaria (para viajes internacionales y larga distancia) y la terminal urbana, para los viajes domésticos. El chofer me explicó que ya la habíamos pasado y que el había avisado, pero yo no lo había oído. Entonces, con la amabilidad característica de los brasileños, me dijo que me quedara en el bus que me llevaba en el viaje de vuelta hasta la terminal urbana… se lo agradecí y pocos minutos después me bajaba del bus en dicha estación, sobre la avenida JK (Juscelino Kubischek).

Ahora debía localizar el hostal, Natureza Foz, el que encontré caminando unas 7 u 8 cuadras… pero al fín llegué. Me dieron una habitación enorme, con 4 camas, elegí la más cercana al televisor y constanté que no había ninguna mesa donde poder trabajar, pero había notado en la recepción, ubicada en una sala muy grande que hacía las veces de comedor, un par de personas estaban con sus computadoras trabajando en mesas allí existentes. Así que durante los dos días de estadía en ese lugar me tuve que acostumbrar a eso, especialmente porque los conectores existentes allí, de tres patas, no concordaban con los míos y la única forma de conectar algo era usando una regleta que tenían allí en la recepción. La usé hasta para cargar las baterías de la cámara.

No demoré mucho en el hotel pues tenía solo dos días allí, así que, siendo las 12 del mediodía salí para hacer el paseo para conocer la Hidroeléctrica Binacional de Itaipú, algo tan enorme que me era difícil de imaginar.

Llegué a la terminal urbana e inmediatamente abordé un bus que iba en la dirección buscada. Llegamos a Itaipú en una media hora, después de recorrer medio Foz do Iguacú.

Ya la entrada, que cubría toda la carretera, impresionaba. Fui hacia el Centro de Visitantes para enterarme de la logístico. Allí me dí cuenta que es un atractivo turístico con todas sus características, especialmente excursiones (una panorámica, otra especial, un Museo Interactivo y una visita al Centro Ecológico). Además el sitio cuenta con sus buses panorámicos, su lanchonete (cafetería), su tienda de souvenirs, etc. Adquirí un pase para hacer el recorrido panorámico y la visita al Centro Ecológico por 30 Reis (18 dólares) y subí al segundo piso de un bus preparado para ese recorrido.

Todo lo que se ve hasta llegar a la represa es un extenso parque muy bien cuidado, con hierba y árboles mantenidos y caminos de acceso asfaltados en excelentes condiciones. Se parecía más a Disneyworld que a una hidroeléctrica.

En el bus, de dos pisos, se encontraba un relator que iba comentando en tres idiomas (portugues, español e inglés) lo que íbamos viendo. Por eso nos enteramos que un canal que se encontraba paralelo a la carretera, formado por pequeños obstáculos debajo del agua, lo que la hacía aparecer como agitada, era en realidad un canal diseñado para que los peces, río abajo, puedan subir a desovar en el lago de la represa. De esa forma contribuyeron a salvar numerosas especies que de otra forma irían a desaparecer. Primer punto a favor de los diseñadores de la represa…

Continuamos avanzando hasta que nos encontramos frente a una enorme mole de concreto que cubría todo nuestro horizonte: era la hidroléctrica, como un gigante amenazando nuestro recorrido. Hicimos una parada frente a la enorme mole (y a un puesto de bebidas y comidas muy estratégico) y luego continuamos con el bus pasando sobre la represa y viendo de cerca las diferentes partes de la misma: el canal de escape, la represa, las conexiones, la casa de máquinas, y una buena vista del Río Paraná, más allá de la represa, con lejanas siluetas de las ciudades de Foz do Iguacu (Brasil) y Ciudad del Este (Paraguay), separadas por el mencionado río.

A continuación algunos datos de esta obra:

DATOS DE ITAIPU BINACIONAL

  • Las obras comienzan en 1975, se abre el canal de desvío del Río Paraná.
  • Se hace el enrocamiento, es decir la base de la represa hecha con roca, sobre una base de arcilla. Se construye el edificio de control y se hacen las excavaciones principales. Inclusive se construyen plantas de concreto y de hielo (usado para retardar el fraguado del concreto). El concreto es la tercera capa (sobre las otras) de la represa.
  • De 1978 a 1982 se construyen la represa principal y la lateral derecha, el vertedero (escape) y la casa de máquinas.
  • Se comienza a formar el lago de reserva (reservorio),  de 187 kilómetros de largo, 1,350 kilómetros cuadrados de superficie y 192 metros de profundidad en su parte más honda. El tiempo planeado para llenarlo era de 90 días, pero en ese momento vinieron las mayores inundaciones en la región en 40 años y el reservorio se llenó en sólo 2 semanas (14 días).
  • Se crearon santuarios para albergar miles de animales rescatados en la operación Mymba Kuera (agarra animales en Guaraní).
  • En 1984 se pone en funcionamiento la primera unidad generadora.
  •  En 2007 se termina la obra, inaugurada por el presidente Lula, con la entrada en operación de las 2 últimas unidades.
  • Se comienza un proyecto con los pescadores locales para realizar cría de peces (de la región) en jaulas.
  • Para llegar a los 14 mil megavatios, su capacidad máxima de producción, Itaipú consumió mucha energía: en el auge de las obras hubo hasta 40,000 trabajadores empleados al mismo tiempo, se utilizó un volumen de concreto equivalente al necesario para construir 210 estadios como el Maracaná, hierro y acero como para construir 380 torres Eiffel, se hicieron 8 veces más excavaciones que para construir el Eurotúnel, y el vertedero (canales de escape) tiene una capacidad 40 veces mayor que el volumen medio de las Cataratas del Iguazú.
  • El agua cae 120 metros por tubos de 10 metros de diámetro, gira en caracol a 700 metros cúbicos por segundo, mueve turbinas de 3,300 toneladas, y genera 700 megavatios en cada unidad, el equivalente al consumo de 2.5 millones de casas.
  • Son en total 20 unidades que producen el 20% de la energía consumida en Brasil y más del 90% de la consumida en Paraguay.

Volvimos con el bus de dos pisos al Centro de Visitantes, donde unos pocos cambiamos de vehículo (una carroza semejante a la de las bananeras) tirada por un jeep. Con ella hicimos la Gira Ecológica, es decir una visita al Centro Biológico y el albergue de animales.

Comenzamos el recorrido con una nueva visión del canal de los peces, con una gran cantidad de capibaras (un gran roedor), tomando sol a la orilla del mismo. Nos cuentan del trabajo los científicos que han probado que los peces suben por ese canal para desovar en el reservorio.

Llegamos entonces al edificio del Centro donde científicos de diferentes especialidades trabajan por mejorar las condiciones ambientales del complejo. Me llamó mucho la atención que, para mantener las diferentes alas del edificio frescas han colocado sobre el techo capas de hierba cultivada y mantenida.

A seguir caminamos por un sendero de árboles cultivados y llegamos al área del albergue de animales, donde pudimos ver un águila, un jaguareté (especie de gato salvaje), una lechuza, un yacaré, un anta enorme, un par de ciervos con cuernos y un hermoso jaguar, que se acercó a nosotros, con una pared de vidrio de por medio.

La guía de la excursión nos contaba que algunos animales están en recuperación para ser sueltos en la naturaleza pero otros, lamentablemente, habían nacido o crecido desde muy pequeños en el centro y no estaban aptos para ello, por ejemplo el jaguar, que lo encontraron de bebé.

Volvimos al Centro de Visitantes y tomé mi bus de vuelta para la ciudad, aprovechando para cenar en el camino en una lanchonete, llegando al hotel casi anocheciendo.  Me dormí sumamente cansado y pensando en el próximo día, mi revisita a las Cataratas del lado brasileño.

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281 thoughts on “Jueves 5 de mayo de 2011 – Foz do Iguaçú, Brasil

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