Miércoles 11 de mayo de 2011 – Belo Horizonte, Brasil


Después de desayunar tuve que andar un poco por los alrededores del hotel para cambiar dólares pues ya no tenía más reales (reais). Para ello esperé que una casa de cambios abriera, a las 9:15 de la mañana, pero la espera valió la pena porque conseguí un cambio mucho mejor que el que me había ofrecido en el aeropuerto al llegar, que no acepté porque me pareció muy poco (1.50 reales por dólar). Aquí conseguí 1.60 reales por dólar.

Volví al estacionamiento a buscar el carro, que tenía en régimen de trasnoche, y debido a que el día amaneció nublado, decidí invertir el orden de las visitas a las ciudades históricas. Hoy haría Congonhas y mañana Passagem de Minas, Mariana y Ouro Preto, dejando Sabará para el día de mi partida, pasado mañana, en la mañana.

La salida para Congonhas, vía BR 040, no fue fácil, pues las vías rápidas de Belo Horizonte no están muy bien señalizadas y demoré cerca de 40 minutos en encontrarme en camino.

Poco después del inicio de la carretera paré en un supermercado y me abastecí de algunas cosas que necesitaba (shampoo, horas de afeitar, agua) y de otras que no necesitaba tanto: castañas de pará, un souflé con aceitunas, media docena de panes mineiros…

Seguí mi camino hacia Congonhas en una carretera con un tránsito moderado (esta carretera es la vía de comunicación entre Belo Horizonte y Río de Janeiro), y a la altura de la mencionada ciudad, como a unos 55 kilómetros del inicio, salí de la carretera y comencé a recorrer los últimos 8 kilómetros hasta Congonhas.

Inmediatamente de entrado en la ciudad anduve tomando fotografías de las calles y sus casas, de hermosa arquitectura antigua y paré en un restaurante para comer algo.

Luego busqué el Santuario de Bom Jesús de Matosinhos, famoso por las esculturas de los apóstoles hechas por O Aleijadinho, traducido significa “el impedidito”, pues este artista era lisiado.

Otro atractivo del lugar son las 6 Estaciones de la Pasión de Cristo y lo exquisito de su interior y al encontrarlo una ligera emoción me cruzó por dentro: hacían exactamente 33 años que había estado aquí por última vez.

Todo parecía igual así que me dirigí hacia el Santuario y por unas largas dos horas estuve tomando fotos del edificio de la iglesia así como de las estatuas de los 12 apóstoles con los rasgos típicos de las creaciones do Aleijadinho.

Luego me dirigí hacia la zona donde se encuentran, pendiente abajo, las 6 estaciones de la Pasión de Cristo, en el interior de pequeños mausoleos con una puerta que permitía ver el interior, donde las estatuas,  nuevamente del Aleijadinho, representan a lo sucedido en dicha estación. Traté de tomarlas tanto en fotografías como en video, en el orden adecuado para después montarlas como una secuencia más fácilmente.

Para finalizar mi visita a Congonhas, me subí al carro y me dirigí hacia la salida del pueblo cuando, a mi izquierda en un alto, ví unas construcciones de la misma época y me recordé que ese era otro motivo de la visita: la Romería.

Descendí del carro y subí los escalones hasta donde se encontraba, en realidad a corta distancia del Santuario, una construcción en forma de rueda, con entrada en uno de sus extremos. En su interior, numerosos puestos como los de una feria, vacíos por supuesto pues se utilizaban de noche, llevando los nombres de diferentes personas y negocios de la ciudad, cubrían el interior de ese círculo. De frente a la entrada, al fondo, un escenario hacía prever que allí se harían presentaciones artísticas y culturales. Es decir, esta romería es una especie de feria permanente…

Regresé al carro y ahora sí, partí para salir de la ciudad y dirigirme de vuelta a Belo Horizonte. En la rodovía BR 040 paré para tomarme un café y comprar un agua y seguí nuevamente hacia el problema que fue para mí, todos los días, conseguir llegar al hotel… Pasé como media hora dando vueltas en el tráfico hasta que algunas indicaciones me llevaron hasta la Rúa Dos Guaranís, el estacionamiento y luego el hotel.

Esa noche cené en la misma habitación parte del souflé de aceitunas, una delicia aunque un poco pesado, acompañado de agua mineral con gas. Estuve trabajando en el internet por un par de horas y me dormí viendo televisión.

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