Jueves 12 de mayo de 2011 – Belo Horizonte, Brasil

Llegó el día más esperado de mi aventura por Minas: la visita a Ouro Preto, una ciudad mineira declarada “Patrimonio Histórico de la Humanidad” por la UNESCO. Por suerte el día amaneció soleado y pude salir, no sin cierta dificultad, como de costumbre, de la ciudad en busca del trío que me había fijado como meta para ese día: Passagem de Minas y su mina de oro, Mariana, la ciudad más antigua de Minas Geraes, y Ouro Preto de indudable fama internacional.

Nuevamente sobre la BR 040, se andan unos 25 kilómetros hasta encontrar un desvío por la Rodovía MG 262, cubriendo en total una distancia de 105 kilómetros hasta Ouro Preto y 125 hasta Mariana.

A partir del desvío pasamos por las poblaciones de Itabirito, donde tomé fotos y video en la feria de artesanías mayormente basada en pedra sabao y metal, luego por Amarantina, donde intenté llegar al Museo de la Inconfidencia, pero estaba cerrado, seguí entonces hasta Passagem de Minas, arribando a la mina de oro, no en operación, allí ubicada y que permite la entrada a turistas.

Llegué a la mina en unos pocos minutos y estacioné el carro afuera de sus instalaciones. Me dirigí a la administración, en una casa antigua, y compré un ingreso para hacer el tour por el interior de la mina.

Un guía se me acercó y juntos nos dirigimos a un carrito con asientos de madera, totalmente abierto y la base de hierro, incluyendo las ruedas que se deslizarían por vías que, ubicadas sobre una ladera, nos llevarían en una pendiente de unos 20 grados, hacia el interior de la mina. Lógicamente el carrito está enganchado con un grueso cable de acero que es manejado por una gran polea que procede a dejarlo bajar (soltando cable) o a hacerlo subir (enroscando el cable).

El descenso a la mina fue un poco traqueteante y por fín nos sumergimos en su interior, donde la vía se deslizaba entre las paredes de piedra con algunas luces a lo largo del trayecto, hasta que llegamos al punto final del viaje, donde nos bajamos del carrito y luego comenzamos a caminar, el guía explicándome todo lo referente a la explotación y a la posterior adaptación del sitio al turismo.

Nos encontramos con un gran grupo de estudiantes y, mientras el guía me explicaba como reconocían el oro, por los minerales que usualmente lo acompañan, nos fuimos en otra dirección dentro de la mina para encontrarnos con una parte que, hacía algunos años atrás había sido sumergida por una rotura y que hoy es utilizada por buzos para hacer cursos de buceo en cavernas… interesante. Le conté al guía que yo era buzo y ahí entonces fui yo quien le explicó algunas cosas acerca de esa actividad pues el estaba muy interesado en conocerla.

Volvimos al lugar donde se encontraba el carrito y nos subimos junto con parte del grupo que habíamos encontrado antes. Quedé muy contento con la capacidad y el profesionalismo del guía por lo que lo gratifiqué con una propina…

Después de algunas fotos en el exterior de la mina, recogí el carro y me dirigí a la segunda etapa de mi recorrido de ese día: Mariana.

A unos 20 kilómetros de Passagem de Minas entré en Mariana, la población más antigua de Minas Gerais, un coqueto pueblito con calles de piedra y numerosas muestras de la arquitectura colonia y post colonial portuguesa, además de sus hermosas iglesias con detalles de estilo barroco mineiro. Sin embargo, como siempre, no se me permitió tomar fotos ni video en ninguna por lo que opté, en vista de que cobran en todos lados sólo por entrar, no visitar los interiores de las iglesias. Eso lo aplicaría también a mi visita de Ouro Preto. Confiaba en recuperar algunas fotos que seguramente tengo en algún lado de mi casa, de la época en que visité todos estos sitios años atrás.

Anduve por el pueblo tomando abundantes fotos y videos, tanto de sus calles, de sus casas, como de sus iglesias, y una vez ya satisfecho me dirigí a la salida del pueblo y tomé la carretera hacia Ouro Preto.

Llegué a la ciudad donde se daría mi visita estelar como a la 1:30 pm y lo primero que hice fue almorzar en un pequeño restaurante frente a la Praca Tiradentes, donde saboreé nuevamente la comida mineira, especialmente “feijao tropeiro” y diversas carnes asadas.

Ya con el estómago lleno, partí en busca de fotografías de los mejores lugares tanto de panorámicas, para las cuales Ouro Preto es muy especial pues está construido totalmente acompañando las numerosas colinas que componen su terreno, como del Museo Tiradentes como de las Igrejas Matriz de Nossa Senhora do Pilar, Sao Francisco de Assis y otras.

Partí de Ouro Preto medio satisfecho aunque el hecho de no poder tomar fotos ni videos en el interior de las iglesias, no sólo de aquí sino de todo el recorrido me ha hecho sentir como estafado. Repito: justifico que no se pueda usar flash pero no justifico que cobren por entrar en una iglesia católica sólo para ver y rezar, va contra mis principios religiosos. Si al menos se pudiera tomar fotos y videos habría alguna justificación… La excusa que se ofrece de que el Gobierno prohibió hacer eso para evitar los robos, me parece totalmente ridícula y tardía. Fotos de los interiores de esas iglesias hace muchos años que pasean por todas partes y con el advenimiento del internet, están a disposición de quien las desee.

Para el gobierno brasileño: es falta de criterio, estar fuera de la realidad y atentar contra el propio turismo. Yo decidí no pagar un centavo más por entrar a una iglesia (los ingresos variaban entre 2 y 7 reales por persona) más por principios que por otra cosa.

Volví hacia Belo Horizonte primero por la estrada MG 262 y luego la BR 040. Al llegar a Belo Horizonte, ya casi de noche, me enfrenté por último día con las dificultades de encontrar mi camino hacia el hotel. Mañana ya la única dificultad sería salir de Belo Horizonte.

En el hotel trabajé en Internet por una hora y media, terminé de comer el souflé de aceitunas y me acosté a dormir viendo algo de televisión.

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