Viernes 13 de mayo de 2011 – Belo Horizonte/Río de Janeiro, Brasil

Ticket Belo Horizonte-Río de Janeiro TAMAlguien ha avisado siempre contra los viernes 13, sin embargo a mí el 13 siempre me ha dado suerte, por lo menos hasta ahora. Me desperté temprano pensando en las pocas horas que me quedaban en Belo Horizonte, trabajé por una media hora con el computador y luego fui a desayunar, como siempre con una excelente atención.

Hoy salí del hotel más o menos temprano, con la idea de revisitar Sabará, una pequeña población con algunas iglesias alucinantes (me recuedan mucho a la de San Francisco de la Montaña, en Veraguas), llenas de adornos estilo rococo, aunque aquí es casi puro láminas de oro.

Pagué mi cuenta en el Hotel Sao Bento, fui a buscar el carro en el estacionamiento y pregunté por la mejor forma de llegar a Sabará. Por tercer día consecutivo me pareció haber entendido todo y en unos pocos minutos andaba deambulando por las calles de Belo Horizonte, perdido hasta la cabeza. Insisto en afirmar que BH es una de las peores ciudades para orientarse. Los avisos están en lugares equivocados, casi siempre en el mismo lugar donde debes doblar, y con el enorme tránsito eso es una aventura imposible, así que sigues un poco más, doblas a la izquierda o a la derecha para hacer un retorno y, ya está, te perdiste nuevamente y saliste a cualquier lado.

Pasé más de una hora tratando de encontrar el camino para Sabará y en todo el trayecto sólo ví un letrero con la indicación, pero como un par de cuadras aparecieron bifurcaciones, carreteras elevadas y desvíos sin ninguna indicación y terminas adivinando, casi siempre el camino incorrecto.

Como tenía hasta las 11:30 am para devolver el carro, mi plan era visitar Sabará, las dos o tres iglesias que allí existen, y luego buscar como llegar al Aeropuerto de Confins donde dejaría el carro y luego esperaría 8 horas por el vuelo a Río.

Eran las 9:30 am cuando había decidido abandonar la búsqueda de Sabará y irme directamente al aeropuerto cuando, de pronto, me encontré nuevamente con un par de carteles indicando la dirección correcta para visitar el poblado colonial. Esta vez me puse a preguntarle a más personas y poco a poco encontré la carretera (de unos 25 kilómetros) y la seguí hasta el final.

Al llegar a Sabará me di cuenta que no tenía mucho tiempo para andar visitando iglesias y elegí la Iglesia Matriz, la que tiene un acervo histórico más importante. Desde afuera me pareció como algo descuidada y efectivamente la estaban limpiando por dentro y por fuera. También, como es común en las iglesias mineiras, estaba el cartel “Proibidas as fotografías” pero esta vez fui prevenido y logré tomar tres o cuatro fotos y algo de video, arrodillado en un asiento y escondiendo la cámara.

Al terminar salí y continué tomando fotos del exterior de la iglesia y de sus alrededores. Comprendiendo que el tiempo se me iba muy rápidamente, decidí irme para el aeropuerto. Hice por lo tanto los 25 kilómetros de vuelta y tuve la suerte de que, con un poco de casualidad, esta vez, con un par de preguntas en el camino, no me perdí y pronto tomé la carretera que se dirige a Confins, otros 30 kilómetros.

Pasé ráudamente frente al aeropuerto y unos 5 kilómetros después llegué al poblado de Confins, vecino del Aeropuerto. Allí completé el tanque del carro con etanol y retrocedí al aeropuerto, donde hice entrega del carro, casi a la hora exacta, y me dirigí al balcón de la TAM para ver si conseguía adelantar mi vuelo, pensando que una vez en Río llamaría a Miguel para que me fuera a buscar.

Conseguí un lugar en un vuelo que saldría a las 13:51, es decir en menos de una hora, y me dirigí al lugar de embarque. Allí comenzaron los problemas.

Al acercarse la hora de salida del avión llegaron los rumores de que en Río de Janeiro estaba lloviendo muy fuerte y que el vuelo estaba atrasado. Efectivamente, eso ocurrió, dieron dos nuevos horarios y finalmente lo cancelaron…

Antes de ser cancelado, la empresa nos pagó el almuerzo en un restaurante en el piso superior. Aproveché para comer nuevamente comida mineira junto con abundante ensalada. Mientras la mayoría de los pasajeros almorzaba, cancelaron el vuelo.

Con toda la gente esperando eso resultó en un pequeño escándalo, con algunos gritos, gente enojada y establecimiento de un plan para enviar a toda la gente en otros vuelos. Yo, hablando aparte conseguí colocarme en un vuelo que saldría a las 20:30 (8:30 pm)… es decir volví al vuelo originalmente programado y reservado. Mientras esperaba, hablé con Miguel por skype y le conté las novedades.

Luego el vuelo fue retrasado hasta las 21:00 y por fin salió en este ultimo horario. El vuelo se realizó sin problemas y al acercarnos a Río surgió ese inmenso panorama de las luces nocturnas sobre Niteroi y la Bahía de Guanabara. Luego el avión giró casi en U y, pasando a la izquierda del Corcovado primero y del Pão de Açucar después, aterrizó en el Aeroporto de Santos Dumont, en pleno centro de Río de Janeiro.

Pasamos tan cerca del Corcovado con su Cristo Redentor totalmente iluminado, como del Pão de Açucar, que lamenté no tener la cámara a mano para poder fotografiar ese espectáculo nocturno.

Al salir del aeropuerto me estaba esperando Miguel, mi único hermano, al que no veía hace diez años, y nos confundimos en un abrazo.

Quería tomar un taxi pero, a pesar que estaba lloviendo, nos fuimos caminando en busca de un bus hasta una parada que se encontraba como a 10 cuadras del aeropuerto, un bus que nos llevaría hasta el barrio de Santa Teresa, donde pasaré mis siguientes cuatro noches, en la casa de Miguel.

Anduvimos por las calles mojadas y lluviosas de Río conversando animadamente, como recuperando el tiempo perdido, y al llegar a la parada nos encontramos con que el próximo bus saldría sólo en una hora. Para entonces eran las 22:40 de la noche (10:40 pm).

Continuamos caminando en busca de un taxi que nos llevara pero no tuvimos suerte hasta que en una parada nos subimos a uno y cuando ya estábamos andando le fuimos indicando nuestro destino, no muy querido por ellos para viajar a esa hora y así llegamos a nuestro destino, una pequeña plazoleta donde llegan cuatro calles y por una de ellas bajamos por una ladera empinada asfaltada con piedras y llegamos por fin a su casa…

Es indudablemente la casa de un hombre y peor, de un artista multifacético. En el mayor desorden se pueden encontrar por toda la casa libros de arte, de arquitectura, de historia, y otros rubros, así como una cantidad importante de cds y casetes de música, y en todos los rincones herramientas y elementos que Miguel ha usado y sigue usando para construir sus obras de arte.

La casa ocupa la parte superior de un edificio de tres plantas al que se entra por dos lugares, la superior por una calle y las dos inferiores por otra. Maravillas de las construcciones en cuestas… Las dos plantas inferiores están ocupadas por su ex-pareja y una de sus hijas. Las otras dos hijas producto de esa unión, Manuela (Manu) y Elena viven en España.

La casa (superior) consta de una salda de estar donde abunda de todo menos lugares para estar, una cocina, un baño y un dormitorio, con una cama de colchón inflable, donde duerme Miguel, y un sofá cama donde dormiré yo.

Continuamos conversando animadamente hasta que el cansancio nos derrotó y nos acostamos, yo por lo menos quedando dormido de una vez.

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289 thoughts on “Viernes 13 de mayo de 2011 – Belo Horizonte/Río de Janeiro, Brasil

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