Domingo 15 de mayo de 2011 – Río de Janeiro, Brasil

Me levanté como a las 7:00 am, Miguel se despertó pero, al decirme que había regresado como las 3:30 am le dije que siguiera durmiendo pues iría a dar unas vueltas por el barrio y tomar fotos. También, sin mucha esperanza, esperaba poderme tomar un café en cualquier lado. El día estaba perfecto, sin una nube en el cielo.

Salí a la calle, subí la ladera y me encontré en la pequeña plaza (Largo das Neves) donde termina el bondinho y el bus. De allí partí caminando por la misma calle en que viaja el tranvía y durante unas 8 cuadras paré para tomar fotos de algunas de las casas y sus mejores detalles. Muchas casas ostentan fechas de comienzos del siglo 20 (alrededor de 1910)… No se parecen en nada a las de Bocas del Toro de la misma época.  Estas están construidas en cemento y tienen detalles hechos con el mismo cemento o con yeso.

De pronto, recordando que estamos en una zona muy alta de Río, me asomé por un hueco entre varias casas y allí, un poco más arriba de nosotros, perfilándose sobre el horizonte, se encontraba el Cristo del Corcovado, observado de atrás y medio de lado… Tomé varias fotos y seguí adelante.

Y el milagro sucedió: en una esquina me encontré frente a un mínimo mercadito con una panadería y, sobre la acera, un lugar donde tomarme un café. Pedí un café con leche y un dulce y me dije, por fin puedo tomar un desayuno a mi gusto… Porque Miguel, un fanático de las hierbas, no tiene café en la casa ni como hacerlo, sólo un frasco de café instantáneo que yo no deseo tomar ahora. Otra sorpresa, mi desayuno me costó sólo R$ 1.90 ($ 1.20).

Ya más reconfortado me volví hacia la casa y me quedé un tiempo en el Largo das Neves, donde hay unos cómodos bancos, tomando algunas fotos más, inclusive de aviones que, provenientes de Santos Dumont, pasan constantemente sobre el lugar. Continué con fotos de la Iglesia de Nossa Senhora das Neves, ubicada allí, nada muy especial, sólo el exterior bastante antiguo.

Finalmente descendí la ladera y regresé a la casa donde esperaba cargar la batería de la cámara y luego despertar a Miguel para irnos a algún lugar.

Salimos como a las 10:30 am bajando la ladera y llegando a la calle inferior tomamos el primer bus hasta el centro y luego otro hasta Cosme Velho, de donde sale el bondinho que sube al Cristo del Corcovado. La fila era realmente enorme y cuando llegamos a la boletería, nos tocó turno para subir en el vehículo de las 1:20 pm. Como teníamos una hora y media hasta que nos tocara ese turno, fuimos a almorzar a un restaurante cercano y a seguir a un café internet vecino, para bajar el SP3 de Windows XP para Miguel.

Llegando la hora, tuvimos que interrumpir el trabajo, y nos dirigimos nuevamente a la estación del bondinho y nos subimos al que nos tocaba, que comenzó inmediatamente a subir en dirección al Cristo. El camino, pasando a través de la Floresta da Tijuca, un área protegida ubicada en pleno Río, nos adelantaba en un par de lugares, una visión de lo que veríamos más adelante: un mapa perfecto de los barrios entre el morro del Corcovado y el mar, con todos sus atractivos.

Al llegar a la cima, descendimos del bondinho y nos dirigimos, muchas veces subiendo escaleras, pero siempre con algo en común: una verdadera multitud. Gente por todos lados, en todos los rincones, en cada lugar desde el que se podía ver el paisaje hacia abajo. Por suerte el Cristo es muy grande y elevado y por eso mismo está a la vista de todos por más apiñados que se encuentren.

Varias tiendas venden de todo tipo de recuerdos y un restaurante se encuentra en uno de los balcones con una vista espectacular, todos con precios fuera de contexto, lo cual es lógico por ser un sitio turístico. El hecho de ser domingo no hizo más que agregar aún más gente a la multitud.

Estuvimos allí, Miguel y yo, alrededor de dos horas y comenzamos el regreso, descendiendo hasta la estación terminal del bondinho del Corcovado a fin de subirnos al próximo, que tuvimos que esperar por una media hora. El trayecto de regreso a la terminal se desarrollo normalmente y tomó los habituales 20 minutos.

Una vez en la calle nos dirigimos de regreso al Café Internet para continuar con la bajada de los tres archivos, pero sólo conseguimos bajar uno más hasta que cerraron. Por esa razón pensé dejar para el día siguiente la bajada de la tercera y última parte del archivo.

Tomamos luego un bus hasta el terminal del bondinho de Santa Teresa, y aunque era ya casi de noche, había bastante turistas intentando llegar al barrio donde vive Miguel pero conseguimos montarnos. Lamentablemente ya estaba muy oscuro para tomar fotos o filmar, así que lo dejé para el día siguiente.

Nuevamente conversamos bastante y, planificamos para el día de mañana que yo saldría sólo y trataría de hacer el Pan de Azucar más Ipanema y Copacabana.  Por fin nos fuimos a dormir…

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